HowTo Paint A Bloodbowl Goblin Referee
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HowTo Paint A Bloodbowl Goblin Referee


What’s up guys! Something a bit less intense to get your brush
around in this video. We’ll be looking at how I painted this Bloodbowl Goblin ref to
a essentially a table top standard. There’s a bit of freehand to up the wow factor but
nothing overly taxing. Start off by basing the skin with Games Workshop
Loren Forest. This is quite a flat desaturated green, so it makes for quite a good base colour
as it gives you a lot of scope for adding lights and darks. I’m painting this over a grey primer. If you’re
interested, I used Rustoleum spray primer I like to use grey because I can see the details
a little better than when I’m using white or black. And the grey makes it much easier
to get a bright finish than if I was painting over black. Next we’ll make a wash by adding a little
rhinox hide to some scrag brown. And we’ll add a bit of water and a drop of lahmium medium.
This is an easy way to make washes on the fly,. Wash this over the skin, letting it pool in
the recesses. Now we’ll use our Loren Forest again and start
to pick out some of the highlights. So along the top of the ear, around the eyes, the bridge
of the nose, and on the cheecks here. Basically any raised areas. To continue we’ll add a bit of flash Gitz
Yellow to our base colour to up the saturation and we’ll use that as our second highlight
colour. Notice I’m drawing the paint over the surface to where I want the brightest
area. And we’re just going to hit all the same points
from the last step, but we’ll try and cover a smaller surface area. As far as paint consistency goes you want
this to be a standard layer consistency, so just a little thinner than your base coat. Add a bit more yellow and we’ll apply another
highlight. Now for our last highlight we’ll just mix
in some vallejo ivory. If you don’t have this you can use screaming skull as a substitute. Fill in the eye socket with some rhinox hide and then dot the eyeball with some either
vallejo ivory or screaming skull. Whichever you have or prefer. We’ll dot these with some
red later on. Add a bit of purple to your base colour and
we’ll paint the lip. It doesn’t really matter what paint you for this, but if you’re interested
I used Gw Xerues Purple. For the ears I’ve mixed a bit of Orcish Dermis
from Scale 75 Fantasy and Games range into the base colour. If you don’t have that you
just make a similar colour by adding a little pink to GW Kislev Flesh. Just paint that onto the lower part of the
ears. Add some Vallejo Ivory to your base and we’ll
paint on some little lines to simulate texture on the ears. Even though we’re not painting this to a high
level it’s still good to through in a few little details like this to help make it stand
out. We’ll do the shirt now, I based in Scale Color
Graphite, or you can use GW Dawnstone, it’s basically the same colour, just gives a different
finish. Paint the whole of his shirt. I’m using the
scale colour here because the matt finish gives it a nice fabriccy quality which works
really well next to the slightly shinier finish the gw paints we used for his skin. Mix in some vallejo ivory and we’ll use that
for our first highlight. Again, we’re just going to hit all the raised areas, paying
particular focus along the top of the shirt. Add some more ivory and we’ll add our second
highlight. For our shadows I’m going to use Graphene
Grey from Scale Colour, if you don’t have that you can use Eshin Grey it’s a pretty
decent equivalent. We’ll paint this into all the folds and creases
and the undersides of the arms. Next we’ll mix a bit of Scale Color Cantabaric
Blue into some Abyssal Blue to give us a nice dark blue colour. You don’t have to use these
exact paints, just grab any dark blue you like the look of, it doesn’t really matter. Now we’ll paint vertical lines over his shirt.
Try and keep these straight and equidistant to each other. If you make a mistake you can
alwasy fix it with some of the grey paints from your pallette. For the red card we’ll start with quite a
dark red by mixing some black into Mephiston red, then we’ll add some of that colour into
some mephiston red for our first highlight. Notice I’m adding the dark red into the bright
red rather than the other way round. It’s much easier doing it like that, if you do
it the other way round you’ll waste quite a lot of paint trying to get it bright enough. So just pull the paint up over the card to
the top. For our second highlight we’ll just use pure
mephiston red. Then finish it off with a little edge highlight
along the top with some ratskin flesh. Base the trousers using the same black we
used for the stripes on the shirt and we’ll add some vallejo ivory for our first highlight. For our second highlight just add a bit more
Ivory. We’ll paint this on as little stripes along
the top of his trousers. Then we’ll make quite a heavy glaze with that colour and glaze over
the transition just to help blur it out a little. To shade them, we’ll make another heavyish
glaze with rhinox hide and we’ll apply this underneath the trousers. If you like you can use this same colour to
line between the edge of his trousers and his legs. You don’t have to do this but it
does help to seperate out the sections. Paint the hat and shoes with black. Now my camera stopped working here so I missed
painting the peak of the hat but the process is pretty easy. You want to start with Scale Colour Abyssal
Blue, pull it up over the surface to where you want your highlight, then just add some
white to the blue and continue building up highlights. I’m doing a little glaze here
to help blur out the transition which gives you a smoother blend. For the gold parts we’ll take some Peanue
Butter from the Fantasy & Games range and mix it with a bit of Scale Colour Red Leather.
Peanut Butter is almost identical to the old classic SnakeBite Leather from GW. The purple
you use doesn’t really matter too much, just pick one you like the look of. Once you’ve based the area with this brown
mix, add some more peanut butter and apply it as your first highlight. For the second highlight we’ll just use peanut
butter on it’s own. Next we’ll add a decent amount of vallejo
ivory to lighten it. Add some more Ivory to the mix and we’ll apply
this as our final highlight. For the money bag we’ll go for a nice and
simple worn leather look. Start off by mixing equal parts of Scale Colour black leather
and brown leather. Mixing some rhinox hide into dryad bark will give you the same kind
of colour. Apply this as your base coat. Mix in some orange to lighten it, I’m using
mars orange from scale color but GW ratskin flesh will give you a similar effect. Simply paint this onto the raised areas, and
pull the pigment up to the top of the bag. Add a little more orange and we’ll highlight
again, hitting a smaller surface area this time. Mix in some vallejo ivory and we’ll do some
edge highlights. I’m just hitting these creases here. It’s also good to add a few little dots
here and there to make it look more textured. For our final highlight we’ll add a bit more
ivory and we’ll use this to intensify our edge highlights. We’ll add some freehand now. Start off by
painting an S shape. I’m just using black paint for this. It’s going to be a dollar
sign so you want to make this a bit thicker to make the next step easier. Alright so now we have our S shape I’ll paint
on two thin vertical stripes through the centre of the S. Like so. Now we’ll paint REF onto the little scroll
on his back here. When I’m doing lettering I like to break each letter up into smaller
shapes. So for the R it’s a vertical line then a little curved section followed by another
line. And we’ll use the same approach for the other
two letters. Alright so that’s basically the model finished,
we just have the base to do. I just blob on some PVA glue and use an old brush to smooth
it out over the base. This sand I’m using is a mix of various different
grades with a few bits of ripped cork to simulate larger stones. You can see I just pour it
onto the glue then tap off the excess. I usually pull off most of the cork and just
leave the ones I like the look off. Once it dried I painted the base with GW Steel
Legion Drag. Then I drybrushed the surface with rakarth flesh. After that I washed with
Agrax Earthshade. I find applying the wash after drybrushing is much faster than the
standard method, plus it gives you quite a nice effect. Paint the rim black. Dab some glue randomly over the surface and then dump some static grass on top. Tap
off the excess and you are all done! Thanks for watching guys, I hope this was
useful. Don’t forget to like and share the video, subscribe if you haven’t already and
I’ll see you all next time. Thanks again…. Bye for now.

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